![]() Ultimately you have to weigh up both the cost and weight vs the extra benefits you will get from having a lower aperture, e.g. I also know with the Sony lenses in particular that the F2.8 version produces much nicer looking sunstars with more spikes (like in the image above) due to the higher number of aperture blades (11 vs 7). A lower f2.8 aperture will also give you the ability to capture a shallower depth of field and better bokeh too which looks great for other types of photography like portraits but may not be so important in landscapes where you usually want everything sharp in the image. You should be able to expect a sharper performance from an F2.8 lens vs an F4 regardless of brand, but you should definitely read some reviews on the specific lenses you are comparing to see what real-world tests have proven at different focal lengths. I started out with a 16-35mm F4 lens and was very happy with its performance, it was only when I started capturing astrophotography scenes that I felt I needed more light in these very low light situations without having to push my ISO so high that I got greater noise in the images. F2.8 lenses are much more expensive than F4 because they contain more glass and are bigger, heavier and pitched towards more professional photographers. The lower the aperture number, the greater the amount of light that can be let in in low light conditions. how wide the hole is to let light through into the camera's sensor). Wide angle lenses come with different apertures (i.e. But what Aperture should I buy? F2.8 vs F4 ![]() Most commonly 12-24mm lenses come with a fixed lens hood that can't be removed as the bulb effect is even more prominent, and this means I wouldn't be able to use my Kase Filters K9 kit which is an essential part of my kit to enhance water scenes using a polariser and even out exposures during sunrise and sunset with a graduated filter. You might ask why I don't shoot with a 12-24mm lens to get an even wider range of view. Shot at 16mm standing on the edge of the lake allowed me to capture as much of the mountains framing the lake as possible - Lake Marian, Fiordland ![]() There are two types of shots that really suit a wide angle lens - when you're looking at a grand landscape with many features and you want to be able to capture it all in one shot, and this is particularly true for astrophotography where you want to incorporate both a foreground as well as a lot of sky OR when you're standing close to a scene and you need that extra width to be able to fit everything in. That's changed over the past few months as I've been challenging myself to see different compositions available at other focal lengths, but it's still a favourite to use. I'm a big fan of shooting with a wide angle lens and until recently I would have said I used my 16-35mm lens 80% of the time. Our eyes see approximately between 35-50mm field of view in real life so shooting wider than this gives a sense of how huge a landscape is, since if we were standing looking at the scene we would physically have to turn our head from side to side to take the same view in. ![]() Wide angle lenses are great for incorporating a vast amount of the landscape into a scene. Wide Angle Lenses Examples: 10-22mm (crop sensor), 12-24mm (full-frame), 16-35mm full-frame)
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